Common Problems

We are not Veterinarians and advise that the best treatment for any problem is to seek professinal help

What to look for when purchasing a new bird?

When purchasing a new bird inquire of your fellow aviculturists for a reputable dealer. Look over their aviaries and assess their standard of housing and husbandry. Inquire as to the history of the bird you wish to purchase. Was it bred by the vendor or was the bird purchased elsewhere by the dealer for resale ?

Observe the bird in question from a distance. Is the bird active, moving about the cage or aviary freely? The bird should not be fluffed, sitting quietly on the perch or floor. It must be alert and aware of its surroundings. Birds cover their illnesses very well, and it is not until they are very sick that their appearance indicates their condition. Do not feel sorry for the quiet, sitting-on-its-own type, as this could be the first sign of a sick bird.

The next step is to handle the bird and feel its breast bone, making sure that the bird’s weight is within the normal body weight range for that species. The bird should not be too light nor too heavy. Overweight birds can have health problems, as do underweight birds.

Look at the bird’s feathers. Is it complete? Some cockatiels have bald heads, which is normal for the breed. Are there any abnormal feathers or any stress lines in the feathers indicating previous stress conditions? Check for mites or lice on the bird’s body of feathers. Start at the bird’s head and look at the eyes for any sign of discharge or blockages, and at the beak for malformation or scaliness (this could be the first sign of mites). Move the feathers and look into the bird’s ears, making sure they are not blocked or discharging.

The bird’s beak and mouth should be clean, with no caking of food inside the beak or wetting of the feathers around it or over the bird’s head. Check the bird’s vent, making sure there is no green diarrhoea or soiled feathers indicating diarrhoea.

The bird’s legs and claws should also be observed for normal confirmation and skin texture. Poor confirmation of the feet may interfere with the bird’s breeding ability. If a clean dropping cannot be observed for the bird in question, place the bird in a clean holding cage and wait for it to pass a dropping so as to observe its colour, texture and consistency. Birds with abnormal droppings should be avoided.

A visit to your avian veterinarian with your new bird for further advice and possible tests is also advisable. Additionally, it is advisable to quarantine all new arrivals for 45 days before placing them into your aviaries.

Night Frights

There is nothing more frightening to cockatiel owners than to be woken during the night to the sound of birds flapping around frantically and screaming like they are being murdered. Somehow I feel that the term ‘Night Frights’ do not just apply to the birds but just as much to us!

Causes:

No one knows the exact reason behind the sudden fright but it is suspected there are numerous possible causes. A sudden shadow or flash of car headlights, a cockroach or rodent running past or maybe even a bird bumping a bell or toy in the dark are all possibilities. Even other pets in the house can set them off in the dark. Maybe the bird is nervous in darkness or even the opposite can be true, it may prefer total darkness at night to sleep. Regardless of the cause it only takes one bird to take flight and the rest will join the melee. It is natural fo rbirds to take flight and flee a situation that is uncomfortable for them and in the wild this works great but being confined to a cage where flight cannot be taken to escape , the end result is not so pleasant.

How to calm them down:

The worst thing to do is run out with a torch and flash the light around as that can only exacerbate the problem. Calm talking and turning the light on are the first steps. Take a quick look around to see if anything stands out as being a possible issue , all the while talking gently and calmly to get them to settle.There is no quick way to get them calmed down . Usually once a light is on and they can see again (they are not nocturnal so have poor night vision) they will settle quickly but beware of trying to grab them as you may sustain a hard bite, purely out of fear. It may be worthwhile leaving the light on for a while as turning it off too soon may ignite another episode.

Injuries:

Sometimes you can be lucky and the bird will calm down quickly and have escaped the episode injury free. More often than not you will see blood….sometimes a little and sometimes quite a lot. Stay calm!! The most common area that you will see blood is the point of the wing. It is caused by flapping against the cage sides and is usually little more than a graze that does not bleed a lot and the bird shows no sign of pain or discomfort. You can try washing the blood off but it is often better to let the bird preen the dry blood off itself as adding water spreads it and makes everything look so much worse. Another common injury is a broken feather. Fully grown feathers will usually just appear as being bent or hanging loosely somewhere along their length. These can be easily trimmed off to make the bird feel more comfortable. If however it was a growing blood feather that was broken it is possible that there is a considerable amount of blood and it could be spread quite some distance especially if it was a flight feather. If this is the case you will need to catch the bird and either remove the remaining piece of broken feather or applying something like corn flour or castor sugar to the bleeding end. I prefer to pluck out the broken stump of the feather as if it gets bumped again it can restart the bleeding. More serious injuries can be broken or dislocated wings and they will need veterinary attention. It will be obvious by the way the wings are being held if there is any damage done.

Prevention:

There is no guaranteed way to prevent night frights but these few things may help avoid them. It may take trial and error to see what suits best as some birds may be afraid of the dark whereas others may like complete darkness.

Leave a night light on so there is not complete darkness
Cover the cage at night or at least partially so the bird has a safe corner to roost.
Leave some music playing so there is not complete silence.
Consider moving the cage away from windows
Consider getting a vet check to make sure there is no underlying health issues

Excessive Egglaying

Naturally egg laying problems only occur in female cockatiels and usually from late winter and throughout spring to early summer.

Causes:

It is the perception of increasing amount of daylight and temperatures that trigger this behaviour. In the wild these environmental changes are a sign to the birds that food is becoming more plentiful and it is time to start nesting. Ocassionally however there will be the odd hen that doesnt seem to care about these factors and just lays eggs… one after another after another.

What to do:

Problems are lessened by making the home environment less inducive to breeding behaviour. Here are some things to try.

Decrease the temperature
Move the cage to different parts of the home.
Cover the cage earlier in the evening and uncover later in the morning to simulate winter daylight hours.
Avoid patting the hen on the rump area as this can simulate mating.
Consider a vet checkup to discuss possible hormone treatment or desexing

If your bird has laid an egg do not remove it. Her breeding cycle has begun and the best thing to do is let her complete it. Cockatiels usually have a set clutch size of eggs they prefer to incubate. Some lay 4 eggs, some 5 and others more. If you take her egg away she will lay another to replace it. Your best option if she is a solo bird and no chance eggs are fertile, give her a bowl or box to lay them in and let her do her thing. She will start incubating them when she has enough and will probably sit on them for around 21 days. During this time she may be very protective of her cage and nest so respect that. Make sure she has a calcium supplement in the form of cuttlebone or calcium bell etc to help her replace the calcium she loses during egglaying and give her heaps of fresh foods that she can eat quickly so she can return to the nest. Once she realises they wont hatch she will abandon them and at that stage take them away and try some of the tips listed above to hopefully prevent her from restarting the cycle all over again.

Desexing is recommended for uncontrolled egg laying behaviour to avert potentially fatal egg binding and other breeding problems.

Abnormal Droppings

It seems like a strange statement to make but knowing what your birds normal poop is like is very important. Because these birds can hide their illness very well sometimes the first indication something is not right can be seen on the bottom of their cage.

What is normal:

Bird droppings typically consist of three components:

The feces (solid part)
The urates (a creamy or chalky substance that represents the bird’s uric acid)
The urine (the liquid portion, which is typically clear or slightly yellowish)

If any of these components change in color, consistency, or frequency, it could be a sign of an underlying health issue.

To understand when something is wrong, you need to know what’s normal for your bird:

Consistency: Normal droppings should be firm but not overly hard. They should have a slight sheen to them and separate easily.
Color: Normal droppings should have a mix of green (from the feces), white (from the urates), and liquid (urine). The color should be consistent with the bird’s diet
Volume: A healthy bird will have droppings that are regular in size, typically produced after each meal or throughout the day.

1. Early Detection of Illness

Watery, loose droppings may indicate diarrhea, possibly due to infection, stress, or dietary changes.
Excessively green or yellowish droppings may indicate liver disease or an infection.
Dark or black droppings can be a sign of bleeding in the gastrointestinal tract (which may indicate ulcers or other serious conditions).
Very white or chalky urates can indicate kidney problems or dehydration.

2. Monitor Diet and Nutrition

Birds’ droppings are also a reflection of their diet. For example:

High seed diets might lead to more pasty, sticky droppings, or even higher fat content in the droppings.
A balanced diet (fruits, vegetables, pellets, and grains) will typically result in firmer, more consistent droppings.

Changes in droppings can occur when a bird’s diet is altered, or if it isn’t getting enough water, or has consumed something toxic.

3. Signs of Infection or Parasites

Birds are prone to certain infections, including bacterial, fungal, and parasitic infections, which can all affect their digestive system. Some of the common signs include:

Mucus or blood in droppings (which could indicate bacterial or viral infections or internal parasites).
Odorous or foul-smelling droppings can indicate a bacterial infection like Clostridium or other digestive issues.

Veterinarians often examine bird droppings for signs of parasites like Giardia or Coccidia. The presence of eggs or larvae in the droppings can point to parasitic infections that require treatment.

4. Hydration and Dehydration

Birds often don’t show outward signs of dehydration until it is quite severe, but you can track hydration levels through their droppings:

Dry or hard droppings can be a sign of dehydration or insufficient water intake.
Clear or watery droppings might indicate that the bird is drinking too much water, which could be a sign of kidney disease or diabetes.

5. Behavioral Changes Linked to Dropping Patterns

Sometimes, birds may avoid eating or drinking due to stress, illness, or injury, and their droppings may reflect this. For example:

Decreased droppings or absence of droppings for several hours can indicate that a bird isn’t eating or drinking.
Frequent or excessive droppings (polyuria or diarrhea) could indicate a gastrointestinal issue or infection.

6. Sign of Toxicity

Birds are particularly sensitive to toxins, and ingesting something toxic (like heavy metals, certain plants, or household chemicals) can cause immediate changes in droppings. For example, lead poisoning or zinc toxicity can result in gastrointestinal distress, which is reflected in changes in the droppings (e.g., greenish, watery, or bloody stools).

7. Breeding and Health

If a bird is breeding, or has recently laid eggs, their droppings may change in consistency or frequency, as their metabolism adjusts to the reproductive cycle. An egg-laying bird’s droppings might be slightly different, but any significant change (like constant diarrhea or lack of droppings) should be closely monitored.

8. Monitor Recovery from Illness or Treatment

If your bird has been sick or is undergoing treatment, monitoring droppings can be useful for tracking progress. Improvement in the appearance of droppings often signals recovery, whereas continued abnormal droppings may suggest that the condition hasn’t resolved or that a new problem has developed.

9. Preventing Spread of Disease

If you have multiple birds, paying attention to their droppings is essential for identifying any infections or illnesses early, especially if one bird becomes sick and could be contagious. Identifying changes in one bird’s droppings allows you to quarantine or isolate the affected bird to prevent the spread of disease to other birds.

In Summary

Regularly observing your bird’s droppings is a vital aspect of bird care. It helps in identifying health problems early, ensuring proper diet and hydration, and preventing the spread of infections or diseases. If you notice any abnormal changes in your bird’s droppings—such as changes in color, consistency, frequency, or smell—it’s important to consult a veterinarian promptly to rule out or treat any underlying issues.

Psittacosis

In cockatiels, ‘psittacosis'(or ‘avian chlamydiosis’) is caused by the bacterium ‘Chlamydia psittaci’ and can lead to a range of symptoms, or sometimes no symptoms at all, depending on the bird’s species, age, and immune status. Psittacosis is most commonly associated with parrots (which is why it is often called “parrot fever”), but it can affect many species of birds, including pigeons, ducks, turkeys, and chickens.

Symptoms in Birds:
Infected birds may not always show obvious signs of illness, but when symptoms do occur, they can vary from mild to severe. Some common signs of psittacosis in birds include:

– Respiratory issues: Nasal discharge, sneezing, or coughing
Lethargy or weakness
Loss of appetite
Diarrhea
Ruffled feathers or poor feather condition
Labored breathing or wheezing
Conjunctivitis (inflammation of the eyes)
Weight loss

In some cases, birds may not exhibit any symptoms at all but can still be carriers of the bacterium, shedding it in their droppings, respiratory secretions, or feathers. This makes psittacosis particularly challenging to diagnose, as infected birds may appear healthy but still transmit the bacteria to other birds or humans.

How Birds Get Psittacosis:

Infection from other birds: Birds typically get infected through exposure to other infected birds, particularly through contact with contaminated droppings, respiratory discharge, or feathers. Infected birds may shed the bacteria in their droppings for weeks to months, even if they show no symptoms.
Environmental contamination: The bacteria can survive in the environment (e.g., on surfaces or in dust) for long periods, and birds can ingest or inhale it when they come into contact with contaminated areas.
Stress or weakened immune system: Birds under stress (such as during transportation, changes in environment, or overcrowding) or those with a weakened immune system are more likely to develop symptoms or become seriously ill after contracting psittacosis.

Diagnosis in Birds:
Diagnosing psittacosis in birds can be challenging because the symptoms are often nonspecific and can resemble other diseases. Veterinary tests typically include:

PCR testing to detect the DNA of *Chlamydia psittaci*.
Blood tests to detect antibodies or the bacteria itself.
Culture tests to grow the bacteria from samples (such as nasal or fecal swabs).

Treatment for Birds:
Psittacosis in birds is typically treated with antibiotics, with doxycycline being the most commonly used medication. Treatment usually lasts for a few weeks to ensure the infection is fully eradicated. It’s important that infected birds be treated promptly, as untreated psittacosis can lead to severe complications, including death.

Prevention:

Quarantine: New birds should be quarantined for a few weeks before being introduced to existing birds to prevent the spread of infection.
Good hygiene: Regular cleaning and disinfecting of cages, food and water dishes, and the environment can help prevent the spread of bacteria.
Avoiding overcrowding: Stress is a significant risk factor, so keeping birds in an environment where they are not overcrowded and have enough space to thrive is important.
Routine veterinary care: Regular check-ups and screenings for psittacosis can help detect the infection early, especially in birds showing signs of illness.

Importance for Public Health:
While psittacosis is primarily a concern for birds, humans can also be infected, as mentioned earlier. Bird owners, pet store employees, veterinarians, or anyone handling birds should take precautions to prevent exposure to the bacteria, particularly by wearing protective gear and ensuring proper hygiene.

If you suspect your bird may have psittacosis, it’s essential to seek veterinary care promptly to prevent spread to other birds and to begin treatment.

Broken Feathers

Broken feathers in cockatiels can be a concern for their overall health, comfort, and ability to fly. Feathers play a crucial role in a bird’s thermoregulation, protection, and aerodynamics (for flying). While occasional feather breaks are common, especially during molting or in active birds, frequent or severe feather damage can signal underlying issues that require attention.

Here’s a guide to understanding the causes, treatment, and prevention of broken feathers in cockatiels:

1.Common Causes of Broken Feathers

Accidental Injury: The most common cause of broken feathers is physical injury. Cockatiels may damage their feathers if they fly into something, get caught in a toy or cage, or have rough interactions with other birds.
Feather Mites or Parasites: External parasites like feather mites or lice can cause irritation and damage to feathers. Birds might try to preen excessively, which can weaken or break feathers.
Over-preening or Self-Mutilation: Cockatiels can over-preen when stressed, bored, anxious, or ill. This can lead to feathers becoming broken or even plucked.
Dietary Deficiencies: Poor nutrition, especially a lack of essential vitamins and minerals like vitamin A, calcium, or protein, can weaken feathers, making them more prone to breakage. A poorly balanced diet can lead to brittle or damaged feathers.
Poor Environmental Conditions: Dry or excessively hot conditions, or an unbalanced humidity level, can affect feather condition and make them brittle. Cockatiels need a certain level of humidity to maintain healthy feathers.
Molting: During molting (the natural process of shedding old feathers), cockatiels might lose or break feathers. This is a normal process, but broken feathers during molting are typically temporary and resolve once the new feathers grow in.
Aggressive Behavior or Fighting: In households with multiple birds, cockatiels may get into scuffles, which can lead to broken feathers. This is especially true if they fight over territory, mates, or food.

2. Types of Feather Damage

Fractured or Split Feathers: If a feather is only partially broken or cracked, it may not be able to regrow properly. A damaged feather may also be painful, causing your bird to groom or bite at the area.
Feather Loss (Plucking): If a cockatiel is excessively plucking or losing feathers, it can lead to bald patches. This is often due to stress, illness, or environmental factors.
Bent or Crooked Feathers: Some feathers may bend or grow abnormally due to genetics, environmental stress, or injury.

3. Treatment for Broken Feathers

Assess the Extent of the Damage: If the feather is only slightly broken or split, it may not need any immediate treatment, but you should monitor it. However, if the feather is severely damaged or causing pain, it’s best to seek professional help.
Trimming Broken Feathers: If the feather is broken in a way that causes discomfort (e.g., a sharp, jagged edge), it may need to be trimmed . Avoid trimming feathers yourself unless you are confident in your ability to do so without injuring the bird.
Support for Feather Regrowth: Healthy feathers will naturally regrow if the cockatiel is in good health. Ensure that the bird has a balanced diet rich in proteins, vitamins, and minerals, especially vitamin A, which is essential for feather health.
Addressing Underlying Causes: If the feather breakage is due to illness, stress, or poor diet, addressing the underlying issue is key to helping the bird recover.
Parasites: If feather mites or external parasites are present, your vet will prescribe treatments like antimicrobial or antiparasitic medications
Behavioral Issues: If your cockatiel is self-mutilating or over-preening due to stress, anxiety, or boredom, try to identify the cause and reduce stressors. This might involve adding new toys, improving cage enrichment, or addressing other environmental factors.

4. Prevention of Broken Feathers

Provide a Balanced Diet: Ensure your cockatiel is eating a well-rounded diet that includes high-quality seed, pellets, fresh vegetables, and a source of protein. A deficiency in calcium, vitamin A, or essential fatty acids can result in weak, brittle feathers.
Regular Exercise: Allowing your cockatiel to fly in a safe, enclosed space is important for maintaining healthy muscle tone and strong feathers. Exercise helps with overall health, which in turn supports feather quality.
Appropriate Cage Setup: Make sure the cage has appropriate perches (in size and material) and is free from sharp objects or hazards that could lead to injuries. Ensure the cage size is large enough to allow wing flapping without hitting cage sides and toys etc.
Humidity and Temperature: Cockatiels need a certain level of humidity (around 40-60%) to keep their feathers healthy. If you live in a dry climate, consider using a humidifier in the room where your bird spends most of its time.
Reduce Stress: Birds that are stressed or anxious are more likely to damage their feathers. Ensure your cockatiel has a peaceful environment with plenty of stimulation, such as toys and social interaction. If you have other pets, particularly predatory animals (like cats or dogs), ensure your cockatiel feels safe.
Regular Grooming and Care: Regularly check your bird’s feathers for signs of damage, mites, or infections. Cockatiels enjoy a bath or spray mist with warm water to help keep feathers ion good condition. If you notice any issues, consult with an avian vet.

5. When to See a Vet

Severe or Unusual Damage: If your cockatiel’s feathers are severely broken, especially around sensitive areas like the wings or tail, or if the breakage appears to be causing pain or distress, contact your vet.
Signs of Infection: If you notice that broken feathers are becoming inflamed, infected, or oozing pus, or if your bird is excessively scratching or grooming the area, seek veterinary care immediately.
Excessive Plucking: If your cockatiel is plucking its feathers excessively, or if there’s no clear cause for the feather loss (e.g., molting), it may indicate a medical or behavioral issue that requires attention.

In Summary:

Broken feathers in cockatiels can result from a variety of causes, including physical injury, poor diet, stress, or parasites. While minor feather damage is common, especially during molting, significant or repeated feather breakage should be evaluated by a veterinarian to rule out underlying health issues. Ensuring your bird has a balanced diet, a stimulating environment, and regular check-ups will help prevent feather damage and promote healthy feather growth. If you notice severe feather damage or other concerning symptoms, don’t hesitate to consult with an avian vet for guidance and treatment.

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